Taking it sloe-ly

The truly local drink that simply can’t be rushed

Autumn is a plentiful time in the hedgerows of Surrey – local food at its best. It’s wonderful to see the berries and hips and it’s perhaps a shame that so much of Mother Nature’s bounty goes to waste, although it is important that plenty remains for the local animal and bird population. While wild blackberries are recognised by most people, another dark coloured berry that lurks in the hedgerows often goes unnoticed – or unrecognised. This is the sloe berry, and Surrey has many of these little gems if you know where to look. We have never seen them in local food shops, but if you hear of any, why not contact us?

Sloes look very much like blueberries and have a cloudy bloom. They are the fruit of the Blackthorn bush (Prunus Spinosa), which is often found in hedgerows. Blackthorn is prickly, but does not carry big thorns, so don’t let the name mislead you. In spring, the bushes display white blossom. The branches are almost black and carry oval leaves, which appear after the blossom. If the “sloes” are rather large, they are likely to be damsons, which are also much sweeter. Just remember: “When a sloe is large and sweet it is probably a damson!”

If you taste a sloe, you will find that it is extremely bitter and carries a relatively large stone. The berries are best left on the bush for as long as possible, allowing the natural sweetness to develop. Hang on if you can until after the first frost, as this helps to further diminish the sourness. Some recipes suggest popping an earlier crop into the freezer, but this does rather spoil the occasion of declaring: “It’s time!” What follows is a great local day out for all the family - the locating and gathering of the sloes. It necessitates the donning of boots and fleeces followed by a bracing countryside walk clutching large plastic bags. If it’s pouring with rain, no worries – it just adds to the sense of occasion. Do take a reliable book though that shoes you exactly what a sloe berry looks like – don’t take any risks.

There are many culinary uses for sloe berries, but one really appeals to the grown-ups. Sloe Gin.

Most recipes for sloe gin involve little more than adding sloes and sugar to gin, shaking and waiting (if you can) for a few weeks. The recipe we recommend is slightly different, and we prefer it. It gives a mellower result. Now, when you talk about sloe gin, you may meet with the response: “Oh, I don’t like gin.” This recipe produces a drink that is warming, smooth and complex – the sweetness of the sugar contrasts perfectly with the dry sourness of the sloes. The gin is an important ingredient, marrying beautifully with the berries, but this sloe gin does not taste of gin. Think of it as a liqueur.

As a rule of thumb, aim to make your sloe gin by Hallowe’en (maybe make the hunt for the sloe berries part of your spooky Halloween fun) and it will be ready by Christmas. Ideally, as you build up your vintages year on year, you will carry a few bottles over. Whilst perfectly drinkable young, it matures with age and takes on a deeper flavour. Then you can have fun trying the different vintages and comparing them. This is a great exercise to share with friends after a night out. Book yourself a little lie-in next morning though! It slides down rather easily in a deceptively silky way, so newcomers beware.

Don’t forget to produce a few extra bottles as Christmas gifts – brilliant for local food and drink enthusiasts. They never fail to please and there is something oh so nice about giving a present you have made yourself. Produce some personalised labels including the vintage, and the recipients will be very impressed – extra local Surrey food stars for you!

There are many other recipes that feature sloes, from pies to chutneys and jellies. We haven’t yet been tempted to try many of them, put off as we are by the thought of removing all the stones! However, sloe gin does taste wonderful poured over vanilla ice-cream and you could use it to liven up your casseroles – it goes well with pork and is a great way to upgrade an everyday recipe to dinner party status. Stir in some cream before serving to balance any acidity. Try experimenting by making chocolates for serving with coffee. Use the sloes from your sloe gin bottle and remove the stones. Then place them on a small metal tray or dish lined with non-stick foil and pour over melted chocolate of your choice (high-cocoa content plain works best though). Harden in the fridge and then roughly break it up and serve in a pretty dish. These little touches really personalise special meals.