While Christmas is a time for traditions, it is also a time for treats. If you’re tired of turkey and all the “usual suspects” as alternatives (beef, lamb, pork, goose…), why not recreate a decadent festive feast of old by putting game back on the menu? From fowl to deer, a good bucher will be able to offer you a selection of meats which may be less familiar but are no less delicious.
We caught up with Chas Drewitt, master butcher at Priory Farm in South Nutfield, Surrey, and asked him for his ideas for a turkey-free celebration. His first suggestion is to try wood pigeon - an under-used delight. Tender, sweet, and beautiful when accompanied with seasonal dried fruits and rich brandy, one bird costs around £2.99 at Priory Farm and serves one to two people.
Chas also recommends pheasant, whose wintry flavour can be enhanced with chestnuts and hazelnuts. Basting it regularly with wine and juices will give the lean meat a smooth texture and succulence. Each bird will feed two people and and will set you back about a fiver.
The grouse, meanwhile, is the crème de la crème of game birds. It feeds on herby plants and heather which give it delicate, aromatic flavours, and a glamorous reputation withstanding centuries. Roast the grouse with fruity alcohol such as sloe gin or blackberry wine and serve with nutty root vegetables (parsnips, mashed celeriac) to complement its woody flavours. At Priory Farm, a whole grouse costs around £7.99, and you’ll need one per person.
If you’re feeding the five thousand, however, a 2kg venison joint will serve the whole family for around £39.00. It can be marinated in red wine and quick roasted – just be sure to let it stand for a while so that the strong flavours mingle and meat is moist. To match its rich, indulgent taste, serve the venison with creamy potatoes, Brussels sprouts and all the Christmas trimmings (including the remaining red wine…).
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Tags: Game
christmas food
grouse
venison
wood pigeon
