As a wee lad growing up in the Glasgow commuter town of Milngavie, Andy MacNeill ate quite a lot of haggis. Now a butcher with 25 years’ experience, the Scot - who trained at Glasgow College of Food Technology - is perfectly placed to dish up advice to customers who visit his butchers counter at Priory Farm in Nutfield.
Haggis is widely enjoyed all year round in Scotland, but south of the border it’s most commonly eaten to celebrate Burns Night on 25 January, which marks the birthday of Scottish poet and lyricist Robert Burns (1759 – 1796). There’s a longstanding yarn that haggis is an animal with two short legs and two long ones to allow it to run effectively in the Scottish Highlands, but it’s actually a savoury pudding. “It’s made from what we call the pluck - the liver, heart and lungs - minced and mixed with oatmeal, spices and suet,” Andy explains. “It’s usually prepared with sheep pluck and the mixture is traditionally encased in the sheep’s stomach, but now it’s more likely to be artificial casing.”
At full-on Burns Night suppers, it’s traditional for the cook to bring in the haggis accompanied by a kilted piper playing the bagpipes, followed by a recital of Robert Burns’ poem ‘Address To A Haggis’, which is written – and performed - in a broad Scottish dialect. During the reading, the host ‘addresses’ the haggis, which involves plunging a knife into the casing and cutting it open with a ceremonial flourish. The time-honoured accompaniment s are ‘neeps and tatties’ (mashed turnip or swede and mashed potatoes) and, of course, a ‘wee dram’ of Scotch whisky.
Although haggis is regarded at the national food of Scotland, Andy reveals that no-one is sure exactly who invented it. The concept can be traced back centuries – some say as far as the Romans - and the dish was almost certainly developed by hunters who needed to quickly deal with the offal (or ‘innards’) before it went off. Popping it all in the animal’s stomach with a few extra ingredients before cooking it over a fire (maybe in a makeshift pan shaped out of animal hide) would have been a pretty good idea. It’s most likely there were similar dishes in Scandinavia and even, dare it be said, the home of the so-called Sassanachs - England!
Traditional haggis is very tasty but, if it’s not for you, look out for vegetarian versions. “They are made with a mixture of vegetables, oatmeal and spices and are quite popular,” says Andy, who stocks these alongside meat haggises from award-winning Scottish butcher Ramsay of Carluke.
There’s no great skill involved in cooking haggis. Andy says many people boil it but his tip is to roast it wrapped in foil “because if you boil it and the bag bursts you can lose your haggis in the water.” Andy says a smaller pudding (500g) takes around 50 minutes to cook and will serve two to three for a main course; he also sells larger ones which are good for feeding a crowd.
So, how does a Scottish butcher in Surrey celebrate Burns Night? There can only be one answer from Andy. “Oh, definitely with haggis and a wee dram!”
Andy MacNeill’s Burns Night tips
Neeps and tatties are also very simple to prepare
- For the tatties: Peel and cut up the potatoes and boil until soft then mash well with seasoning and a splash of cream or butter and maybe some mustard for a bit of a kick.
- For the neeps: Peel and chop the turnip or swede, boil in the same way as the potatoes, then season and mash until fluffy.
- For a professional touch, Andy suggests filling a culinary ring with layers of haggis, neeps and tatties and serving with a whisky sauce.
- Or try Chicken Balmoral, which Andy sells on the counter at Priory Farm – chicken breasts stuffed with haggis. “Haggis and chicken go really well together,” he says.
- For dessert, whip up some cranachan; raspberries folded into cream flavoured with toasted oatmeal and honey. Frozen raspberries work well at this time of year when the fresh ones are imported and lacking in flavour.
Find haggis at butchers, good food shops, delis and supermarkets.
Andy MacNeill manages the butchers counter at Priory Farm, Sandy Lane, Nutfield, Surrey RH1 4EJ www.PrioryFarm.co.uk
This article appeared in the Surrey Mirror 21 January 2016; copyright Local Food Britain.
Tags: Haggis
Burns Night
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