Last year’s headline-grabbing ‘Horsegate’ scandal shook the foundations of the food industry. As well as inciting a distrust of budget cuts, it ignited a renewed interest in food traceability. Complacency turned to curiosity as consumers questioned the origins of their food.
While the scandal was damaging to companies hell-bent on cutting prices, it was a shot in the arm for those at the other end of the spectrum. Producers of integrity stepped into the spotlight, meeting a hungry audience.
So it’s not surprising to see organic food making a comeback after some four years in decline. Indeed, in February 2013, a month after ‘Horsegate’ broke, supermarket organic sales increased to their highest level in nine months. It seems the future is looking rosy, and Rob Sexton, CEO of Soil Association Certification says, “Not only is the [organic] sector back in growth, but businesses that carry the Soil Association organic logo are experiencing relatively buoyant year on year growth of 5.3%. There is great potential in the organic sector and, in particular, a growing public demand for organic and food logos that they can trust.”
The South East is a hotspot for sales of organic products and, while the resurgence of interest in organic is heartening, it’s worth remembering there are many locally-produced goods which don’t carry the Soil Association label, yet are of outstanding provenance.
Take Three Harbours Beef of Chichester, whose cattle are reared naturally on Sussex marshes and pasture where they are allowed to mature slowly, enjoying two summers at grass until around two to two and a half years old - long by modern standards. The scheme is ethically and environmentally friendly, with happy cows and low food miles. It helps protect and support wildlife on the marshes including endangered species. Their slow-produced beef is well worth the wait.
Another example is found in award-winning Veasy and Sons fishmongers whose shops in Forest Row and Horsham sell the freshest seafood caught by owner Chris Veasy and his crew who fish the rich seas between Eastbourne Harbour and Poole Bay. This is a world away from shrink-wrapped seafood farmed in some far-off land.
It takes effort to check out producers, which is where a website like Local Food Britain comes in handy. Once you’ve found the food, consider hooking up with like-minded households to buy directly from the producer. Over in Surrey, Simon Bacon has done just this, setting up Redhill and Reigate Food Group (RedhillandReigateFood.org.uk). It works on the principle of families joining forces to buy direct from local suppliers. If you’re interested in joining, contact Simon via the website.
The resurgence in organic food sales is a welcome indicator of shoppers’ attitudes about production methods, ingredients and animal welfare. Labels are useful, yet there’s no replacement for an enquiring mind when it comes to celebrating the foods produced right here on our doorstep.
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