crabapple jelly is tops on toast

It’s crystal clear – crabapple jelly is tops on toast

Are crabapple trees under-rated for the smaller garden? Think about it – they are compact, show an abundance of fragrant, white blossom in the spring and by July, the flowers have been replaced by a plentiful supply of small, green fruit which ripens in the August sunshine to a pretty shade of deep pink.

By the arrival of September, the apples are a rosy red and falling from the over-burdened branches. For the local food enthusiast, this is the time to get cracking on the crabapple jelly!

It’s really easy to make. The fruit is simply picked, washed, and popped into the pan. The juicy pulp is then strained, slowly and carefully over several hours. Our DIY straining apparatus involves an upturned stool with a cotton cloth slung between the legs, securely attached with strong elastic bands, and a bowl underneath to catch the juice – and we can report it works jolly well! The jelly turns out crystal clear, pale pink and delicious.

The thing about crabapples is that they are naturally very high in pectin, which acts as a natural gelling agent. The uniquely sour flavour adds “bite” while the skins and stalks provide natural colour. Crabapples are the wild ancestors of today’s “eating” apples, but are unpleasant if eaten raw. However, boiled down with sugar they turn into an attractive and adaptable jelly.

Come late summer, crabapples are plentiful - and free. We haven’t spotted them in any local food shops in Surrey, but if you see any, do contact us. There are lots of types and colour, each producing a different jelly, so be prepared to experiment. If you don’t have a tree, or simply spot a crop that you like the look of in someone else’s garden, ask if you can avail yourself of a bag or two, then give them a jar of the jelly. This is a great way to get to know your neighbours and you may find they too are a local food lover.

If you don’t fancy making your own jelly, seek out the excellent Crabapple Jelly made by Ouse Valley Foods of Plumpton Green near Haywards Heath, Sussex, and available in many local Surrey farm shops, butchers and independent food stores.

Julian Warrender of Ouse Valley tells us that sometimes the pectin in the crabapples can be too much of a good thing, producing a syrup as opposed to a jelly. To prevent this from happening, she recommends incorporating a small proportion of Bramleys – which are grown on many Surrey farms - with the crabapples, or adding some lemon juice. Julian advises against introducing vinegar (as some recipes may suggest) because, in her words: “Crabapple jelly is an absolute crossover between a sweet and a savoury jelly. It’s good with roast lamb, pork or game, but is also perfect to serve with a cream tea or to use as a cake filling. In some savoury jellies, you add vinegar, but don’t do that with a crabapple – keep it as a sweet-based jelly.”

A spoonful provides a perky partner for lovely local Surrey cheeses, and it’s also just the job to add a tang to sauces and makes an excellent glaze to brush on meat before cooking. Try mixing some into casseroles at the end of cooking or serve it for dessert alongside a baked local Bramley and some vanilla ice cream – St Joan’s of Leigh, Surrey is one of our favourities - for a zingy twist, or pop a blob into the centre of rice pudding for a change from jam. Come October, it goes wonderfully well with fresh pheasant , yet it’s not too upper-crust to grace a slice of hot buttered toast – made with local Surrey artisan bread from Chalk Hills Baker, naturally!

We have one burning question to ask Julian: does she use the upturned stool method of straining the crabapple juice? “No,” she replies, “but it sounds like a great idea, especially when used with a thin calico or cheese cloth. I wouldn’t use a tea towel though as it could be a bit fluffy! We have jelly bags made for us, huge ones, and use a special contraption for straining.”